KATHERINE J. HAN

September 19, 2009

The Porter House Cupcake

Filed under: Dessert, boston, reminiscing — kjhan @ 12:52 pm

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The Porter house is:

  • Jli and all the wonderful things that the very name entails
  • A warmly lit front door with a Tomblesaurus leaning out with a welcoming grin and a giant wave
  • Tacos
  • Romping around and jumping on the most comfortable bed
  • Sofa-side girl chats under blankets

In many ways, the Porter house is a hub of warmth and comfort. So when I set my mind on developing a recipe just for the lovelies at the Porter house, I knew I wanted something to capture the feeling of comfort I felt when I was there. It took some experimentation, but I think this is it: a moist pumpkin cupcake scented with cinnamon and a kick of nutmeg with a hidden sweet and tart apple pie filling in the center that surprises you mid-bite.

Jli, Tomblesaurus, Abdelsamad, Abaclig, and Mr. CIA, this one’s for you!

Pumpkin Spice Apple Cupcakes a.k.a. “The Porter House”
Makes 19 cupcakes (18 cupcakes for guests + 1 for the baker, of course)

Pre-work:

  • Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit
  • Bring the eggs for the cupcakes  to room temperature and lightly beat them
  • Bring the melted butter for the cupcakes to room temperature
  • Set out the cream cheese and butter for the frosting to soften
  • If you are using cupcake liners, line your muffin tin with the liners. If not, lightly grease your muffin tin.

Prepare the apple filling first:

  • 2 medium apples peeled, cored, and finely diced
  • 1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon grapefruit zest
  • 1/2 tablespoon cider vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  1. Soak the diced apples in a bowl of water with the tablespoon of lemon juice.
  2. Then combine the brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, grapefruit zest, and vinegar in a bowl.
  3. Mix the apples into the apple filling seasoning mixture.
  4. Lightly sautee the apples with the butter until fork tender. Set aside.

Now prepare the cupcakes:

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 2 cups packed light-brown sugar
  • 1 cup unsalted melted butter
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 can (15 oz) pumpkin puree
  1. Combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg intended for the cupcakes in a medium bowl
  2. In a large bowl, whisk together the brown sugar butter, and eggs until smooth
  3. Add the dry ingredients to the wet as you continue to whisk until smooth
  4. Add the pumpkin puree and whisk it in until combined
  5. Fill the muffin tins 1/4 of the way with the pumpkin cupcake batter. Drop a heaping teaspoon of the apple filling in the center of the batter. Pour the pumpkin cupcake batter over the filling until the muffin tins are about halfway full.
  6. Put in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes or until the tops of the cupcakes spring back when you gently push on them with your fingertips.

Prepare the cream cheese frosting as you wait:

  • 1.5 packages cream cheese, softened
  • 4 tablespoons butter, softened
  • 1.5 cups confectioners sugar, sifted
  • 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
  1. Cream together the cream cheese frosting and butter until smooth
  2. Mix in the vanilla
  3. Gradually add the granulated sugar
  4. Pipe or smear onto the cupcakes once cooled

*I opted to top the cupcakes with a sprinkling of candied walnuts instead of a cream cheese frosting, but for those not worried about such a silly thing as calories, I would highly suggest topping these off with a swirl of cream cheese frosting, as it would be a lovely complement to the cupcakes.

April 2, 2009

Childhood sandwiched between two cocoa wafers

Filed under: Dessert, oppa, photo, recipe, reminiscing — kjhan @ 12:46 pm

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Homemade Oreos

Think about some of your favorite childhood memories, and odds are that one (if not two or three) will have something to do with an Oreo. Don’t believe me? Give it a try. In my case, I remember …

… those commercials of kids and grandparents making airplane Oreos, zooming them around, dunking them into glasses of ice cold milk, giggling, and biting into them as the kid and granddad share a secret smile.

… that game gracie and I always played, where we would  each twist off a side of an Oreo, hoping to get the most cream, because that would ensure that our crush was crushing on us, too – obviously.

… and sneakily twisting open an Oreo, eating the filling, sticking the cookies back together, and running away with the sweet taste of victory lingering in my mouth.

So when I ran across this recipe for homemade Oreos, a wave of whimsy rushed over me, and I just knew I had to try it out. The recipe produced a cookie that was reminiscent of an Oreo, but the strong form of cocoa powder I used gave the cookies a more mature twist. After having done one trial run with the recipe, I think I’ll modify it the next time around in two key respects: 1) reducing the amount of sugar used, and 2) using the slice and bake method used on refrigerator cookies instead of dropping the dough so that I can better control the thickness of the cookies (if they get too thick, they get too intense). Additionally, I might consider shaving off a couple minutes from the baking time to produce softer, chewier wafers that might complement the creaminess of the filling even better.



Homemade Oreos
Adapted from SmittenKitchen
Serving size: 24-36 cookies

Chocolate Wafers
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsweetened Dutch process cocoa
1 tspn baking soda
1/4 tspn baking powder
1/4 tspn salt
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
1 large egg

Filling
1/2 cup butter
2 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar
2 tspns vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F

1. In a large bowl, mix the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and sugar together.
2. Cut the butter into the flour mixture and mix until just combined. The dough should be crumbly. Add the large egg. Continue mixing until a mass of dough forms. It will be very dense.
3. Roll the dough into a log 2 inches in diameter, and slice the cookies to 1/4 inch in thickness. Place cookies on parchment paper. about 2 inches apart. Bake for 8-9 minutes for crispy cookies, and 6-7 minutes for chewier ones.
4. While the cookies are baking, prepare the filling by creaming together the butter, sugar, and vanilla extract. Start on low and gradually increase speed.
6. Transfer the filling to a piping bag. Once the cookies are baked, let cool. Then put a dollop (or two) of frosting on one cookie. Sandwich it with another cookie.

Hope you enjoy this as much as I did!

March 27, 2009

Eating through NY

Filed under: Dessert, Savory, Travel - Food, confection, new york, reminiscing, street food — kjhan @ 7:54 pm

M, J, K, and E visited the East Coast this spring break, bringing with them a bit of Cali sunshine and tons of “home.” It was such a treat to see them again as we rediscovered favorite haunts and made new memories. We wreaked havoc on the streets as we frightened passerbyers with our alarmingly fast walking paces, and we ate our ways through three states over four days. In short, it was a fantastic time.

The cozy hotel we called home for a night – the Hudson – was conveniently located next to one of the best bakeries in town – Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery. We didn’t waste any time hitting it up and sampling their caramel macaron and chocolate torte. The chocolate torte with its silky and rich ganache did not disappoint. And as we settled down on a wooden bench on the outskirts of Central Park to share our treats, I was so happy I was sighing all over the place.

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After a romp in Central Park and a “visit” to the Met, we refueled at Sofia’s (or Serafina’s for that matter) before we headed out to 60th b/w 2nd and 3rd for some frrozen hot chocolate that was served to us by the creator of the delicious strawberry fields sundae, himself!

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And as if that wasn’t enough, we set off for midtown for some korean fried chicken at Bonchon on 5th ave. We rounded out the night over some chicken (and lamb) and rice from the halal guys on 53rd and 6th, where K discovered just how hot their hot sauce was, and D managed to outeat all of us combined. I, just like nearly every tourist and New Yorker, have always loved the halal guys, but the chicken and rice from that night after we had torn apart the city on foot was even more special than usual. My mouth waters just writing about it.

Day 2 was just as sweet and savory as we walked our way downtown, stopping along the way for cream puffs from Cafe Zaiya, sushi from Chiyoda Sushi, a slice of Chocolate Pizze from Max Brenner, a NY slice from the one and only genuine Famous Ray’s of Greenwich Village, a bag of amarettis and pignolis from Caffe Roma, and ice cream from the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory.

New York’s a great city, made even sweeter when discovered over delicious food, laughs, and good people. I’m looking forward to calling it home soon.

February 26, 2009

On Souffles and Love

Filed under: Dessert, how-to, reminiscing — kjhan @ 6:46 pm

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Sabrina, 1954

A woman happily in love, she burns the souffle. A woman unhappily in love, she forgets to turn on the oven.

I used to, and still very much do, believe that Sabrina is one of the most delightful movies of all time. With its subtle humor and occasional bouts of slapstick comedy, wistful romance, love uttered through stolen glances, and dreamy monologues, Sabrina used to leave me sighing all over the place.

Even as a little one, I used to love it when directors intertwined food with love throughout the movie, because it was a depiction of a universal truth: that there really is no better way to say I love you than a freshly made plate of someone’s favorite food. Maybe that’s why I liked Sabrina so much; the souffle was a recurring motif, as it became the physical manifestation of emotions, and Linus even had a full-functioning kitchen in his office! What a man.

Reminiscing on this movie on this sleepy Thursday has inspired me to take on the formidable souffle. So for the next couple of days, I will be researching the best techniques to making the perfect souffle as I await the arrival of my new shiny copper mixing bowl and wire whisk. And in the end, the hope is that the souffle will not be burnt, and the oven will be on. Because, really. Is it too much to ask to be happily in love and to have the perfect souffle?

Let’s find out!


Technique 1: Whisking egg whites

Perfectly whipped egg whites are the keys to the best souffles. The quality of the egg whites are determined by three key factors: (1) the purity of the egg whites, (2) the utensils utilized, and (3) the technique.

(1) Purity of egg whites.

Egg whites whip into a foam because the mechanical action denatures the proteins in the egg whites. These denatured proteins coagulate and stiffen the foam, stabilizing the air bubbles. Fat interferes in this process and decreases the final volume. For the best results, make sure to bring the egg whites to room temperature before whipping. And if you’re not afraid to be a little rebellious, use thin, older egg whites – they whip up more easily.

(2) The utensils

Copper bowls aren’t just pretty to hang in your kitchen, but are very useful for whipping egg whites. They say that copper ions migrate from the copper bowl into the egg whites that form a complex with conalbumin – a protein in the eggs. This complex is more stable than just the conalbumin, so the egg whites are less likely to denature afterwords. Also, you can be more certain that copper bowls (rather than plastic) don’t have an residues of fats left over on them, because fats don’t cling to copper as they do to plastic.

(3) The technique

Preparation – prepare the utensils by rubbing some vinegar, lemon, or salt on them. Dry with a clean towel. Take a towel, roll up the corners, and arrange in a circle on the table. Place the bowl in the middle of the circle to stabilize it.

Cracking the eggs – If you crack the egg whites directly into the bowl, make sure no traces of yolk get in. Colder eggs are easier to separate. Run a clean thumb along the inner lining of the egg shell to get the last bit of egg white into the bowl. You can save the yolks for a yolk-heavy dish, such as hollandaise sauce. Way to be resourceful in this economic downturn!

Whisking – first, you want to whisk such that you break up the proteins slightly. Do so by whisking in any direction. Your movement should not be too hard or too high. Use very small strokes and keep the whisk in contact with the whites at all times. Once everything takes on the look of huge grayish foam, start increasing the breadth and power of your whisking. While whisking, make sure that you do not stop at any time. Be ready for a full-on arm workout! Beat the eggs to the required consistency (soft or hard peaks). The eggs should take on a brilliant white color with a consistency similar to whipped cream.

Use immediately after.

If folding the egg whites into a thicker batter, spread the egg whites in a layer on top of the batter, and fold it in. Gently slip a flat wooden spatula into the middle of the bowl, and draw the spatula out to the edge of the bowl. Trying to grab as much batter as possible, spoon the bottom up to the very top. Rotate the bowl in the direction opposite to the one in which you are stirring, and keep folding gently until incorporated. If adding the egg whites to a lighter mix, put the lighter mix over the egg whites and do the same folding motion.

And there you have it: the perfect way to make delightful and delicate souffles, chiffon cakes, meringues, pavlovas, and more!

I’ll let you know how my venture goes!

February 24, 2009

Childhood Sweets

Filed under: Dessert, how-to, photo, reminiscing — kjhan @ 2:35 pm

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Walnut M&M Cookies

There are a couple of things in the world that immediately conjure feelings of warmth and comfort: the smell of dinner on mom’s hands at the end of the day, dad’s echoing laughter and singing, the thought of gracie’s half run/skip, d’s big bear hugs, the smell of em’s house after school, and … cookies! Most of these things are hard to replicate over here on the east coast, so whenever a wave of homesickness comes over me, I make do with what I can and whip out my trusty mixing bowl to bake chocolate chip cookies. Luckily enough, this recipe is easy and I only have to wait moments until the apartment is filled with the scent of freshly baked cookies.

D and I have been on the hunt for the “best” chocolate chip cookie recipe, and this one is our favorite by far. It has the perfect balance of sweetness and saltiness, and the texture is ideal: crisp on the outer edges, and chewy on the inside until everything just melts on your tongue. If you want to get that cracked top that you see on a lot of cookies at bakeries, just add a pinch of cream of tartar.

Here is the recipe in case you want to conjure up a little bit of home at your place, too!

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Ingredients:
1 cup butter, softened
1 cup white sugar
1 cup packed brown sugar
2 eggs
2 tspns vanilla extract
3 cups all-purpose flour (this time around, I used 2 cups flour + 1 cup rice flour, which gave the cookie a nice texture. Make sure to cut down on the sugar if you do use this substitution!)
1 tspn baking soda
2 tspns hot water
1/2 tspn salt
1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
1 cup chopped walnuts (optional)

Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F
2. Beat butter, white sugar, and brown sugar until creamy
3. Add eggs one at a time and beat until incorporated
4. Stir in vanilla
5. Dissolve baking soda in hot water. Add to batter with salt
6. Add flour, chocolate chips, and nuts. Mix until just incorporated
7. Drop by medium spoonfuls onto parchment paper
8. Bake for about 9-10 minutes in the preheated oven

February 23, 2009

Red Velvet Cupcakes

Filed under: Dessert, photo, reminiscing — kjhan @ 12:47 pm

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It’s no wonder they call these the Shirley Temple of all cupcakes – so sweet and delectable, they’re endearing to the max!

July 24, 2007

Snippets from Argentina – Eating through Buenos Aires

Filed under: Travel - Food, drinks, photo, reminiscing — Tags: , , — kjhan @ 10:34 am
Cafe Tortoni
Churros
Medialunas
Copa Chocolate
La Gran Taberna
Paella


June 29, 2007

Snippets from Argentina – Maté

Filed under: Travel - Food, drinks, reminiscing — Tags: , — kjhan @ 10:32 am

Maté flows through the very veins of Argentines. Like a secret potion, it is carefully concocted as hot water is poured into tazas tightly packed with shredded mate leaves. And almost as if in a sacred ritual of hospitality and solidarity, the cup of maté is passed around for each person to sip heartily from a metal bombilla fashioned with a strainer.

On first sip, the maté is dark and has woodsy undertones. It is as mysterious and foreboding as Argentina’s complex and contrasting social and political scenes that draw you in on your first encounter, beckoning you to discover what lies at their cores. Its flavors are as capricious as the Argentina that transitions from fashionable metropolises in the city centers to absolute destitution, crumbling homes, open sewers, and streets strewn with trash in a matter of a few blocks.

The drink resonates with the spirit of Argentina. Mary sweetens hers with a heaping spoonful of sugar. Roberto likes his straight. Regardless, its full-bodied character inevitably emerges. And it is utterly complex.