KATHERINE J. HAN

March 27, 2009

Eating through NY

Filed under: Dessert, Savory, Travel - Food, confection, new york, reminiscing, street food — kjhan @ 7:54 pm

M, J, K, and E visited the East Coast this spring break, bringing with them a bit of Cali sunshine and tons of “home.” It was such a treat to see them again as we rediscovered favorite haunts and made new memories. We wreaked havoc on the streets as we frightened passerbyers with our alarmingly fast walking paces, and we ate our ways through three states over four days. In short, it was a fantastic time.

The cozy hotel we called home for a night – the Hudson – was conveniently located next to one of the best bakeries in town – Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery. We didn’t waste any time hitting it up and sampling their caramel macaron and chocolate torte. The chocolate torte with its silky and rich ganache did not disappoint. And as we settled down on a wooden bench on the outskirts of Central Park to share our treats, I was so happy I was sighing all over the place.

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After a romp in Central Park and a “visit” to the Met, we refueled at Sofia’s (or Serafina’s for that matter) before we headed out to 60th b/w 2nd and 3rd for some frrozen hot chocolate that was served to us by the creator of the delicious strawberry fields sundae, himself!

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And as if that wasn’t enough, we set off for midtown for some korean fried chicken at Bonchon on 5th ave. We rounded out the night over some chicken (and lamb) and rice from the halal guys on 53rd and 6th, where K discovered just how hot their hot sauce was, and D managed to outeat all of us combined. I, just like nearly every tourist and New Yorker, have always loved the halal guys, but the chicken and rice from that night after we had torn apart the city on foot was even more special than usual. My mouth waters just writing about it.

Day 2 was just as sweet and savory as we walked our way downtown, stopping along the way for cream puffs from Cafe Zaiya, sushi from Chiyoda Sushi, a slice of Chocolate Pizze from Max Brenner, a NY slice from the one and only genuine Famous Ray’s of Greenwich Village, a bag of amarettis and pignolis from Caffe Roma, and ice cream from the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory.

New York’s a great city, made even sweeter when discovered over delicious food, laughs, and good people. I’m looking forward to calling it home soon.

March 19, 2009

Belly Showdown

Filed under: Savory, boston, commentary, eating out - review, home, oppa — kjhan @ 7:16 am

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David Chang has catapulted into the culinary world, bringing with him a hefty slab of pork belly. Some may call pork belly just an over-glorified, fatty cut of meat, while others see it as a tender, earthy morsel that melts in your mouth, leaving behind a richness on your tongue, and a satiated sensation in your tummy. As for Koreans, we’re just surprised that it took so long for the pork belly to take off: pork belly is among the most inexpensive cuts of Korean barbecue meat around. It has been enjoyed for generations, thinly sliced, sizzling on a low-standing korean grill, dipped in the perfect blend of sesame oil, salt, and pepper, wrapped in freshly picked red lettuce leaves with a spoonful of rice and a hefty dollop of red pepper paste with a sliver of fresh garlic, and chased with some ice cold soju on a hot summer day.

This common food item, however, has made its way into stardom, making its debut appearance on the menus of 4-star restaurants around the nation. To many restaurant patrons, the belly has become an obsession. Chefs all over the U.S. have responded to the uptick in interest and have started braising, crisping, roasting, and doing all sorts of fanciful things in hopes of creating a dish that will wrest away the title of best pork belly from Chang’s delectable pork steamed buns.

I recently had the chance to sample two variations of the pork belly at No. 9 Park with D. and J. and at Uni with D., E.,and S. The pork belly at No. 9 was roasted and accompanied by creamy polenta, hedge-hog mushrooms, and fennel agrodolce. The skin was roasted to a crisp and the crunch was a delightful counterpoint to the sometimes overwhelming fattiness of the meat. Unfortunately, ease of edibility was sacrificed for taste, as the skin was crisped to such a degree that it could not be cut through with a fork and knife. So unless the restaurant patron was blessed with a fantastic set of molars and incisors, the skin had to be set aside, unable to be enjoyed. Thankfully enough, the naked cut of meat left behind was delicious enough on its own, melting in my mouth at first bite, with a hint of sweetness from the polenta, and rich earthiness from the hedgehog mushrooms.

Unsurprisingly, the Japanese-style sushi restaurant and bar Uni took an entirely different approach from the French and Italian peasant-fare inspired restaurant No. 9 Park. While No. 9 Park’s pork belly was roasted, its skin was crisped, and it was served with a number of accompaniments, Uni’s pork belly was braised, its texture was tender throughout, and it was served with minimal accompaniments, letting the pork take center stage. Additionally, while No. 9 Park’s pork belly was minimally seasoned so that the full body of the meat could resonate on its own, Uni’s pork belly was marinated and served in a subtle sauce smelling faintly of soy sauce, sesame oil, and daikon. The daikon in the sauce and served alongside the pork in the dish was key to the success of the dish, as it lent it a refreshing overtone that cut through the richness of the meat. The texture of the meat was meltingly tender, and the mushroom in the dish highlighted the earthy flavors of the pork. The dish was excellent overall. And in E’s and my cases, it helped create a sense of nostalgia as it conjured memories of comfort meals enjoyed in our mothers’ kitchens.

While both of these dishes are delicious, they are a far cry from Chang’s simple and delectable steamed pork buns (tender pork belly sandwiched in a steamed bun with cucumbers and hoisin sauce) that are simple to the point of elegance, proving that oftentimes, less is definitely more.

March 18, 2009

Tease

Filed under: Dessert, boston, confection — kjhan @ 11:14 am

Growing up in perpetually sunny ca, my vitamin-d enriched young self always wondered why the weather was the cliche conversation starter. I mean, how many shades of yellow and gorgeousness can the sun take on? It was only after I survived my first Boston winter, shivering, ghostly-pale, but more or less intact, that I realized just how many variations the weather could take on.

The weather’s an even more capricious tease these days. Winter apparently didn’t get the notice that spring’s taking over on March 21st and in a (hopefully) last act of protest will be blasting us with snowflakes on the 23rd. It’s hard to imagine bundling up in winter attire again as I sit here, writing outside, bathing in the sun in flip flops and a light sweater (God bless 55 degree days). But they say it will be so.

I don’t know about you, but this whole fickle weather pattern deal has thrown me in a tizzy. So I’m in the mood to bake something just as complex, fickle, and capricious. I’m thinking something lemony-tart, but sweet … something velvety smooth with hints of crunch. What to do? Suggestions are welcome. Winning suggestion gets honorary tasting of baked good!

March 13, 2009

3 Yards of Rope

Filed under: Dessert, commentary, confection, photo, recipe — kjhan @ 8:32 pm

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A pavlova and its namesake


If there is one thing in life you can always depend on, it is your oven … breaking the very moment you stick a perfect pavlova in it. In C and my case today, it was our oven door that broke apart. Quite literally. But a silly little thing like a broken oven door wasn’t going to stand between us and our pavlova. Had we listened to C’s dad’s adage, “You’ll never run into trouble as long as you leave the house with 3 yards of rope,” we would have been in tip-top shape. Since we lacked any length of rope, however, C and I improvised, using tape to create a little contraption.

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60 minutes later, our oven was still broken, but we didn’t care. We had the most perfect pavlovas ever: delicate on the outside; gooey, marshmallowy, and utterly heavenly inside; and topped with whipped cream and tart kiwi slices on top.

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The only con about these pavlovas is that they are so light and yummy, you’ll eat the entire batch before you even know it. Luckily enough, our ideals of beauty are changing during these tough economic times <http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2009-03-13/hot-and-heavy/>. So lay aside those worries about calories (at least until the Dow’s climbed into the teens), and enjoy to your hearts’ content, ladies!



Perfect Pavlova

Meringue
3/4 tspns pure vanilla extract
1 tspn white wine vinegar
3/4 tbsp (11.25 ml) cornstarch
3/4 cups granulated sugar
3 large egg whites
1/4 tsp salt

Topping
Whipped cream
Tart fruit of your choice (berries are marvelous and kiwis are also delightful)

Before you start:
Preheat oven to 275 degrees Fahrenheit, make sure your utensils are spotless and wipe them down with vinegar and salt, and line two baking sheets with parchment paper

1. Measure out the wet ingredients (vanilla and wine vinegar) in a small ramekin or bowl
2. Combine the sugar and cornstarch in a separate small ramekin or bowl
3. Separate the egg whites of 3 cold eggs and set aside until they get to room temperature
4. Start to beat the egg whites and salt on low speed. Gradually increase the speed to medium. Once soft peaks begin to form, start to add the sugar and corn starch mix to the eggs a couple tablespoons at a time as you increase the speed to medium high. Continue beating.
5. 4-5 minutes after all the dry ingredients have been incorporated, add the vanilla extract and vinegar. Continue to beat until stiff peaks form and the egg whites take on a brilliant-white glossy appearance.
6. Pipe or spoon generous servings of the meringue onto a baking sheet covered with parchment paper to make 3 inch rounds. Space each pavlova out about 1/2 an inch. Use the back of a slightly wet, clean metal spoon to create a well in the middle of each pavolva. This will hold the filling.
7. Put the pavlovas in the oven on the center rack and reduce the temperature to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake for about 50-60 minutes. Take out of the oven before they turn tan-colored or start to crack.
8. Fill the well in each pavlova with whipped cream right before serving and top with a tart fruit of your choice.

March 10, 2009

Hungry

Filed under: Savory, Travel - Food, new york, photo, street food — kjhan @ 11:50 am

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One Summer Day

Filed under: Travel - Food, new york, photo — kjhan @ 11:48 am

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March 6, 2009

Becoming Thomas Keller

Filed under: Dessert — Tags: — kjhan @ 4:16 pm

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Chocolate “Bouchon”

Well, not quite. But I can dream, right?

I chanced upon a recipe for Bouchon’s title dessert and gave it a go. You can bake them in the traditional bouchon mold if you want to show off your international flair. Alternatively, you can use a mini muffin tin to make delightful one-bite treats. As for C, A, G, and D, they get their own chocolate-y morsels shaped into hearts.

Enjoy!

Restaurant Review: The Channel Cafe

Filed under: Savory, boston, oppa, restaurant review — kjhan @ 3:58 pm

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Chicken Cordon Bleu

The Channel Cafe is a great lunch spot that moonlights as a chic, chill, and laid-back dinner date spot/lounge. Don’t let the long trek over deter you; Channel Cafe’s unique location in the basement of an art gallery in the heart of Fort Point adds to its charm, and everyone who visits feels like they’ve chanced upon a hidden gem in Boston.

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Tilapia Burrito

One word that can be used to describe their menu offerings is: solid. D and I shared the quesadilla of the day – Chicken and Cheddar Quesadilla – to start, which was perfectly seasoned. It had the ideal texture combination of crispiness from the tortillas and tender, moist, juiciness from the chicken. After, I opted for the Chicken Cordon Bleu, and Darren chose the Tilapia Burrito. Both were excellent, though the Moray Sauce on the Chicken Cordon Bleu fell a little flat. Nevertheless, the entire dish worked well. Darren’s Tilapia Burrito was excellent, and the deliciousness of the dish was heightened by the artsy diagonal cut D made – what an artiste! We rounded it all out with a slice of Pumpkin Cheesecake topped with some crumbles and chocolate. Overall, it was a satisfying meal highlighted by the great ambiance and company.

We will visit again. And so should you!

March 4, 2009

Cute as a Button (Mushroom)

Filed under: Dessert, confection, how-to, oppa, photo — kjhan @ 11:36 am

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Meringues in the shape of mushrooms. There is a logical progression for this, I promise.

“Marshmallow” sounds like “mushroom.” And since meringues are sort of like marshmallows because they’re both … white and sugary, we can go from meringues to marshmallows to mushrooms. Thus, by the transitive theory …

So when I came across a recipe for Meringue Mushrooms, it seemed like such a logical creation that I just had to try it.If you remember my detailed post on Souffles and Love, I outlined the proper way to whip egg whites to a soft or stiff peak. This time around, I used a method that one can only call a “loose interpretation” of the proper techniques. And the kitchen gods didn’t smite me.

I started by prepping the utensils by rubbing them down with vinegar and lining a baking sheet with parchment paper. I measured out the wet and dry ingredients so they would be easy to add while continuously whipping. Starting on low speed, I began to whip the eggs and salt. Progressively, I increased the power to medium-high as I added the powdered sugar a couple tablespoons at a time. I then added the wet ingredients and continued to whip until the egg whites looked glossy and brilliant- white.

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Next, I transferred the mix to a ziploc bag. Putting the ziploc bag in a tall cup helps in the transfer. I snipped off a corner of the bag about 1/2 an inch across and began to pipe the mushroom caps onto the parchment paper. Using firm pressure and holding the bag upright, A. and I placed the tip of the bag close to the parchment paper and slowly drew the bag up, making a relatively flat half-dome about 1.5 inches in diameter.  Towards the end, we piped off to the side to minimize the appearance of peaks as much as possible. Using a clean wet finger, we went back and patted down the tops of the caps to get rid of any peaks. To make the mushroom stems, we used lighter pressure on the bag and slowly drew the tip up as straight as possible to make a tall-ish stem that looked like a stretched out Hershey’s kiss. As A. can attest, making extra stems is a good idea, as things tend to go wrong. Piping the caps and stems was the most time-consuming step. You can quicken the process, however, by taking A’s advice and making them into Portabello mushrooms.

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Bake these in the oven at 200 degrees F with a wooden spoon stuck in the oven door to keep it slightly ajar. These will bake for an hour. In the meantime, melt a 1/4 cup of chocolate in a double-boiler or microwave, stirring occasionally. Once the meringues are done, take them out to cool. Drill small holes into the bottoms of the mushroom caps and spread the melted chocolate along the bottoms. Use a serrated knife to make some gills in the chocolate if you would like. Stick a stem into each of the holes. (C: “But the hole’s too small!”)  Once the chocolate has set, invert the mushrooms and dust with cocoa powder.

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And there you go! Delightful Meringue Button Mushrooms. For presentation, you can assemble the mushrooms in a basket or you can put a dot of chocolate on the bottoms of each of the stems and stick them onto a plate in an arrangement of sorts. These are not only whimsical additions to any tea setting, but are also tasty little morels. The meringues are light and crumbly in your mouth, and the slight bitterness of the unsweetened cocoa powder and semisweet chocolate balance out the sweetness of the meringues.

Enjoy!

March 2, 2009

Kneading

Filed under: Savory, how-to, oppa, recipe — kjhan @ 1:46 pm

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Maybe it was because fat snowflakes were holding us hostage in our rooms all day as they covered the Square, but I was feeling particularly energetic and antsy the other night. I needed a release, and there really is no better release for energy than kneading dough. So I looked up some recipes for quick breads, and came across two self-proclaimed “Irresistible” and “Amazingly Easy” recipes for Irish Soda Bread. While the Irresistible Soda Bread did, indeed, look irresistible, I opted for the Amazingly Easy recipe since it called for kneading while the Irresistible did not. Such misnomers!

Prep and baking was relatively straightforward, and the outcome was a moist, rich dense bread with a flaky crust. The interior was subtly flavored by buttermilk, with bursts of sweetness from the raisins. All of this was rounded out by the nuttiness of the walnuts I threw in just for fun. I might improve upon the recipe next time by cooking at a lower temp for a slightly longer period of time and adding some orange zest to cut through the bread given how dense and rich it is. (A million Irish grandmothers are probably turning in their graves as I write!)

Here is the recipe (Adapted from MP Welty)

Irish Soda Bread

Ingredients

4 cups all-purpose flour
4 tblspns white sugar
1 tspn baking soda
1 tblspn baking powder
1/2 tspn salt
1/2 cup softened butter
1 cup buttermilk
1 egg
1 1/2 cup raisins
1 cup roasted walnuts
zest of one orange
1/4 cup butter, melted
1/4 cup buttermilk

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly grease a large baking sheet.
2. In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Cut in softened margarine and mix until combined.
3. Make a well in the dry mixture and stir in 1 cup of buttermilk and egg. Mix until combined. And raisins, walnuts, and orange zest.
4. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead slightly. Form dough into a round and place on prepared baking sheet.
5. In a small bowl, combine melted butter with 1/4 cup buttermilk; brush loaf with this mixture. Use a sharp knife to cut an ‘X’ into the top of the loaf.
6. Bake in preheated oven for 45 to 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean. Continue to brush the loaf with the butter mixture while it bakes.